EU Flower criteria (2002/371/EC)

Öko-tex 100 Class II

No

Covering

Criteria

Required documentation

Criteria

Documentation

2

Cotton fibres

Shall not contain more than 0.05 ppm of each of the followinig substances:

aldrin,

captafol,

chlordane,

DDT,

dieldrin,

endrin,

heptachlor,

hexachlorobenzene, hexachlorocyclohexane (total isomers)

2,4,5-T,

chlordimeform,

chlorobenzilate,

dinoseb and its salts,

monocrotophos,

pentachlorophenol,

toxaphene,

methamidophos,

methylparathion,

aration,

phosphamidon.

The applicant shall either provide proof of organic certification or documentation relating to the non-use by the farmers or a test report, using the following test methods: As appropriate, US EPA 8081 A (organo-chlorine pesticides, with ultrasonic or Soxhlet extraction and apolar solvents (iso-octane or hexane)), 8151 A (chlorinated herbicides, using methanol), 8141 A (organophosphorus compounds), or

8270 C (semi-volatile organic compounds).

The total sum of the substances listed below must not exceed 1 ppm (incl. PCP and TeCP: 2,4,5-T 93-76-5

2,4-D 94-75-7

Azinophosmethyl 86-50-0

Azinophosethyl 2642-71-9

Aldrine 309-00-2

Bromophos-ethyl 4824-78-6

Captafol 2425-06-1

Carbaryl 63-25-2

Chlordane 57-74-9

Chlordimeform 1970-95-9

Chlorfenvinphos 470-90-6

Coumaphos 56-72-4

Cyfluthrin 68359-37-5

Cyhalothrin 91465-08-6

Cypermethrin 52315-07-8

DEF

Deltamethrin 52918-63-5

DDD 53-19-0, 72-54-8

DDE 3424-82-6, 72-55-9

DDT 50-29-3, 789-02-6

Diazinon 333-41-5

Dichlorprop 120-36-2

Dicrotophos 141-66-2

Dieldrine  60-57-1

Dimethoate 60-51-5

Dinoseb and salts 88-85-7

Endosulfan, α- 115-29-7

Endosulfan, β- 33213-65-9

Endrine 72-20-8

Esfenvalerate 66230-04-4

Fenvalerate 51630-58-1

Heptachlor 76-44-8

Heptachloroepoxide 1024-57-3

Hexachlorobenzene 118-74-1

Hexachlorcyclohexane, α- 319-84-6

Hexachlorcyclohexane, β- 319-85-7

Hexachlorcyclohexane, δ- 319-86-8

Lindane  58-89-9

Malathion 121-75-5

MCPA 94-74-6

MCPB 94-81-5

Mecoprop 93-65-2

Metamidophos 10265-92-6

Methoxychlor 72-43-5

Mirex 2385-85-5

Monocrotophos 6923-22-4

Parathion 56-38-2

Parathion-methyl 298-00-0

Phosdrin/Mevinphos 7786-34-7

Propethamphos 31218-83-4

Profenophos 41198-08-7

Quinalphos 13593-03-8

Toxaphen (Camphechlor) 8001-35-2

Trifluralin 1582-09-8

Analytical testing of sample. Testing method not documented in the criteria.

8a

Polyester fibres

The amount of antimony in the polyester fibres shall not exceed 260 ppm.

The applicant shall either provide a declaration of nonuse or a test report using the following test method: Direct determination by Atomic

Absorption Spectrometry. The test shall be carried out on the raw fibre prior to any wet processing.

The amount of extractable antimony in the polyester fibres shall not exceed 30 ppm.

Analytical testing of sample. Testing method not documented in the criteria.

8b

Polyester fibres

The emissions of VOCs during polymerisation of polyester, expressed as an annual average, shall not exceed 1.2 g/kg of produced polyester resin. (VOCs are any organic compound having at 293.15 K a vapour pressure of 0.01 kPa or more, or having a corresponding volatility under the particular conditions of use).

The applicant shall provide detailed documentation and/or test reports showing compliance with this criterion, together with a declaration of compliance.

10a

Size

At least 95% (by dry weight) of the component substance of any sizeing preparation applied to yarn shall be “sufficiently biodegradable or eliminable”, or else shall be recycled

In this context, a substance is considered as “sufficiently biodegradable or eliminable”:

if when tested with one of the methods OECD 301 A, OECD 301 E, ISO 7827, OECD 302 A, ISO 9887, OECD 302 B, or ISO 9888 it shows a percentage degradation of at least 70% within 28 days,

 or if when tested with one of the methods OECD 301 B, ISO 9439, OECD 301 C, OECD 302 C, OECD 301 D, ISO 10707, OECD 301 F, ISO 9408, ISO 10708 or ISO 14593 it shows a percentage degradation of at least 60% within 28 days,

or if when tested with one of the methods OECD 303 or ISO 11733 it shows a percentage degradation of at least 80% within 28 days

or, for substances for which these test methods are inapplicable, if evidence of an equivalent level of biodegradation or elimination is presented.

The applicant shall provide appropriate documentation, safety data sheets, test reports and/or declarations, indicating the test methods and results as above, and showing compliance with this criterion for all sizeing preparations used.

10b

Primary spinning of polyester

Spinning solution additives, spinning additives and preparation agents for primary spinning (including carding oils, spin finishes and lubricants): At least 90% (by dry weight) of the component substances shall be sufficiently biodegradable or eliminable in wastewater treatment plants.

This requirement does not apply to preparation agents for secondary spinning (spinning lubricants, conditioning agents), coning oils, warping and twisting oils, waxes, knitting oils, silicone oils and inorganic substances.

The applicant shall provide appropriate documentation, safety data sheets, test reports and/or declarations, indicating the test methods and results as above (10a), and showing compliance with this criterion for all such additives or preparation agents used.

10c

Mineral oil

Content of PAH in the mineral oil shall be less than 1.0% by weight.

The applicant shall provide appropriate documentation, safety date sheets, product information sheets or declarations, indicating either the content of polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons or the non-use of products containing mineral oils.

11a

Biocidal or biostatic products

Chlorophenols (their salts and esters), PCB and organotin compounds shall not be used during transportation or storage of products or semimanufactured products.

The applicant shall provide a declaration of non-use of these substances or compounds on the yarn, fabric and final product. Should this declaration be subject to verification the following test method and threshold shall be used: Extraction as appropriate, derivatisation with acetic anhydride, determination by capillary Gas-liquid Chromatography with Electron Capture Detection, limit value 0.05 ppm.

Biological active products in context of this standard are those active chemical products that are used with the intention to destroy, deter, render harmless, prevent the action of, or otherwise exert a controlling effect of any organism by chemical or biological means. These substances are accepted except for: Pentachlorphenol (PCP) and 2,3,5,6-Tetrachlorphenol (TECP) which must not exceed 0.5 ppm

?

11b

Biocidal or biostatic products

Applied product may not be active when the textiles are used.

The applicant shall provide a declaration of non-use.

14

Auxillary chemicals

APEOs, LAS, DTDMAC, DSDMAC, DHTDMAC, EDTA and DTPA shall not be used and shall not be part of any preparations or formulations used.

The applicant shall provide a declaration of non-use.

15

Detergents, softeners and complexing agents in wet processing

At each wet-processing site, at least 95% of detergents, fabric softeners, and complexing agents respectively shall be sufficiently degradable or eliminable in wastewater treatment plants.

The applicant shall provide appropriate documentation, safety data sheets, test

reports and/or declarations, indicating the test methods and results as above (10a), and showing compliance with this criterion for all detergents, fabric softeners and complexing agents used.

16

Bleaching agents

AOX emissions shall be less than 40mg Cl/kg. However, less than 100mg Cl/kg is allowed for

- linen and other bast fibres

- cotton, which has a degree of polymerisation of less than 1800, and which is intended for white end products

The applicant shall either provide a declaration of non-use of chlorinated bleaching agents or provide a test report using the following test method: ISO 9562 or prEN 1485.

17

Impurities in dyes

The level of ionic impurities in the dyes shall not exceed the following:

As 50ppm; Ba 100ppm; Cd 20ppm; Co 500ppm; Cr 100ppm; Cu 250ppm; Fe 2500ppm; Hg 4ppm; Mn 1000ppm; Ni 200ppm; Pb 100ppm; Se 20ppm; Sb 50ppm; Sn 250ppm; Zn 1500ppm.

Any metal that is included, as an integral part of the dye molecule shall not be considered when assessing compliance with these values, as they only relate to impurities.

The applicant shall provide a declaration of compliance.

Controlled only on the final fabric

18

Impurities in pigments

The level of ionic impurities for pigments used shall not exceed the following:

As 50ppm; Ba 100ppm; Cd 50ppm; Cr 100ppm; Hg 25ppm; Pb 100ppm; Se 100ppm; Sb 250ppm; Zn 1000ppm.

The applicant shall provide a declaration of compliance.

Controlled only on the final fabric

19

Chrome mordant dying

Chrome mordant dying not allowed

The applicant shall provide a declaration of non-use.

Controlled only on the final fabric

20a

Metal complex dyes

In case of cellulose dyeing, where metal complex dyes based on copper, chromium or nickel are part of the dye recipe, less than 20% of each of those metal complex dyes applied (input to the process) shall be discharged to wastewater treatment (whether on-site or off-site).

In case of all other dyeing processes, where metal complex dyes are part of the dye recipe, less than 7% of each of those metal complex dyes applied (input to the process) shall be discharged to wastewater treatment (whether on-site or off-site).

The applicant shall either provide a declaration of non-use or documentation and test reports using the following test methods: ISO 8288 for Cu, Ni; ISO 9174 or prEN 1233 for Cr.

Controlled only on the final fabric

20b

Metal complex dyes

If metal complex dying is used and the dyes are based on copper, chromium or nickel the emission to water after treatment shall not exceed:

Cu 75mg/kg (yarn or fabric); Cr 50mg/kg; Ni 75mg/kg

The applicant shall either provide a declaration of non-use or documentation and test reports using the following test methods: ISO 8288 for Cu, Ni; ISO 9174 or prEN 1233 for Cr.

Controlled only on the final fabric

21

Azo dyes

Azo dyes that may cleave to any of the following aromatic amines shall not be used:

4-aminodiphenyl (92-67-1)

Benzidine (92-87-5)

4-chloro-o-toluidine (95-69-2)

2-naphthylamine (91-59-8)

o-amino-azotoluene (97-56-3)

2-amino-4-nitrotoluene (99-55-8)

p-chloroaniline (106-47-8

2,4-diaminoanisol (615-05-4)

4,4’-diaminodiphenylmethane (101-77-9)

3,3’-dichlorobenzidine (91-94-1)

3,3’-dimethoxybenzidine (119-90-4)

3,3’-dimethylbenzidine (119-93-7)

3,3’-dimethyl-4,4’-diaminodiphenylmethane (838-88-0)

p-cresidine (120-71-8)

4,4’-methylene-bis-(2-chloraniline) (101-14-4)

4,4’-oxydianiline (101-80-4)

4,4’-thiodianiline (139-65-1)

o-toluidine (95-53-4)

2,4-diaminotoluene (95-80-7)

2,4,5-trimethylaniline (137-17-7)

4-aminoazobenzene (60-09-3)

o-anisidine (90-04-0)

The applicant shall provide a declaration of non-use of these dyes. Should this declaration be subject to verification the following test method and threshold shall be used: German method B-82.02 or French method XP G 08-014, 30 ppm threshold. (Note: false positives may be possible with respect to the presence of 4-aminoazobenzene, and confirmation is therefore recommended)

The following cleavable acrylamines must not be used:

MAK III, category

4-Aminodiphenyl 92-67-1

Benzidine 92-87-5

4-Chloro-o-toluidine 95-69-2

2-Naphthylamine 91-59-8

MAK III, category

o-Aminoazotoluene 97-56-3

2-Amino-4-nitrotoluene 99-55-8

p-Chloroaniline 106-47-8

2,4-Diaminoanisole 615-05-4

4,4’-Diaminobiphenylmethane 101-77-9

3.3’-Dichlorobenzidine 91-94-1

3,3’-Dimethoxybenzidine 119-90-4

3,3’-Dimethylbenzidine 119-93-7

3,3’-Dimethyl-4,4’- diaminobiphenylmethane 838-88-0

p-Cresidine 120-71-8

4,4’-Methylene-bis-(2-chloroaniline) 101-14-4

4,4’-Oxydianiline 101-80-4

4,4’-Thiodianiline 139-65-1

o-Toluidine 95-53-4

2,4-Toluylendiamine 95-80-7

2,4,5-Trimethylaniline 137-17-7

o-Anisidine (2-Methoxyanilin) 90-04-0

2,4-Xylidine 95-68-1

2,6-Xylidine 87-62-7

4-Aminoazobenzene 60-09-3

Analytical testing of sample. Testing method not documented in the criteria.

22a

Dyes that are carcinogenic, mutagenic or toxic to reproduction

The following dyes shall not be used as they are carcinogenic, mutagenic or toxic to reproduction:

C.I. Basic Red 9

C.I. Disperse Blue 1

C.I. Acid Red 26

C.I. Basic Violet 14

C.I. Disperse Orange 11

C.I. Direct Black 38

C.I. Direct Blue 6

C.I. Direct Red 28

C.I. Disperse Yellow 3

The applicant shall provide a declaration of non-use of such dyes.

The following dyes shall not be used as they are carcinogenic:

C.I. Acid Red 26 C.I. 16 150 3761-53-3

C.I. Basic Red 9 C.I. 42 500 25620-78-4

C.I. Basic Violet 14 C.I. 42 510 632-99-5

C.I. Direct Black 38 C.I. 30 235 1937-37-7

C.I. Direct Blue 6 C.I. 22 610 2602-46-2

C.I. Direct Red 28 C.I. 22 120 573-58-0

C.I. Disperse Blue 1 C.I. 64 500 2475-45-8

C.I. Disperse Orange 11 C.I. 60 700 82-28-0

C.I. Disperse Yellow 3 C.I. 11 855 2832-40-8

Analytical testing of sample. Testing method not documented in the criteria.

22b

Dyes that are carcinogenic, mutagenic or toxic to reproduction

No use is allowed of dye substances or of dye preparations containing more than 0.1% by weight of substances that are assigned or may be assigned at the time of application any of the following risk phrases (or combinations thereof):

R40 (limited evidence of a carcinogenic effect),

R45 (may cause cancer),

R46 (may cause heritable genetic damage),

R49 (may cause cancer by inhalation),

R60 (may impair fertility),

R61 (may cause harm to the unborn child),

R62 (possible risk of impaired fertility),

R63 (possible risk of harm to the unborn child),

R68 (possible risk of irreversible effects),

as laid down in Council Directive 67/548/EEC of 27 June 1967 on the approximation of the laws, regulations and administrative provisions relating to the classification, packaging and labelling of dangerous substances6, and its subsequent amendments.

The applicant shall provide a declaration of non-use of such dyes.

23

Potentially sensitising dyes

The following potential sensitising dyes shall only be used if the fastness perspiration (acid and alkaline) of the dyed fibres, yarns or fabric is at least 4:

C.I. Disperse Blue 3            C.I. 61 505

C.I. Disperse Blue 7            C.I. 62 500

C.I. Disperse Blue 26          C.I. 63 305

C.I. Disperse Blue 35

C.I. Disperse Blue 102

C.I. Disperse Blue 106

C.I. Disperse Blue 124

C.I. Disperse Orange 1 - C.I. 11 080

C.I. Disperse Orange 3 - C.I. 11 005

C.I. Disperse Orange 37

C.I. Disperse Orange 76 (previously designated Orange 37)

C.I. Disperse Red 1             - C.I. 11 110

C.I. Disperse Red 11           - C.I. 62 015

C.I. Disperse Red 17           - C.I. 11 210

C.I. Disperse Yellow 1 - C.I. 10 345

C.I. Disperse Yellow 9 - C.I. 10 375

C.I. Disperse Yellow 39

C.I. Disperse Yellow 49

The applicant shall either provide a declaration of non-use of these dyes or a test report using the following test method for colour fastness:

ISO 105-E04 (acid and alkaline, comparison with multi-fibre fabric).

The following potential allergenic dyes shall not be used:

C.I. Disperse Blue 1 C.I. 64 500 2475-45-8

C.I. Disperse Blue 3 C.I. 61 505 2475-46-9

C.I. Disperse Blue 7 C.I. 62 500 3179-90-6

C.I. Disperse Blue 26 C.I. 63 305

C.I. Disperse Blue 35 12222-75-2

C.I. Disperse Blue 102 12222-97-8

C.I. Disperse Blue 106 12223-01-7

C.I. Disperse Blue 124 61951-51-7

C.I. Disperse Brown 1 23355-64-8

C.I. Disperse Orange 1 C.I. 11 080 2581-69-3

C.I. Disperse Orange 3 C.I. 11 005 730-40-5

C.I. Disperse Orange 37 C.I. 11 132

C.I. Disperse Orange 76 C.I. 11 132

C.I. Disperse Red 1 C.I. 11 110 2872-52-8

C.I. Disperse Red 11 C.I. 62 015 2872-48-2

C.I. Disperse Red 17 C.I. 11 210 3179-89-3

C.I. Disperse Yellow 1 C.I. 10 345 119-15-3

C.I. Disperse Yellow 3 C.I. 11 855 2832-40-8

C.I. Disperse Yellow 9 C.I. 10 375 6373-73-5

C.I. Disperse Yellow 39

C.I. Disperse Yellow 49

Analytical testing of sample. Testing method not documented in the criteria.

24

Halogenated carriers for polyester dying

Halogenated carriers shall not be used.

The applicant shall provide a declaration of non-use.

Chlorinated benzenes and toluenes must not exceed 1.0 ppm in the final product.

25a

Printing

Printing pastes used shall not contain more than 5% volatile organic compounds (VOCs: any organic compound having at 293.15 K a vapour pressure of 0.01 kPa or more, or having a corresponding volatility under the particular conditions

of use).

The applicant shall either provide a declaration that no printing has been made or provide appropriate documentation showing compliance together with a declaration of compliance.

25b

Printing

Plastisol-based printing is not allowed.

The applicant shall either provide a declaration that no printing has been made or provide appropriate documentation showing compliance together with a declaration of compliance.

26

Formalde-hyde

The amount of free and partly hydrolysable formaldehyde in the final fabric shall not exceed 30 ppm for products that come into direct contact with the skin (300 ppm for all other products).

The applicant shall either provide a declaration that formaldehyde containing products have not been applied or provide a test report using the following test method: EN ISO 14184-1.

The amount of volatile substances emitted from the final fabric shall not exceed the listed values:

Formaldehyde 50-00-0 max 0.1 mg/m³

Toluol 108-88-3 max 0.1 mg/m³

Styrol 100-42-5 max 0.005 mg/m³

Vinylcyclohexan 100-40-3 max 0.002 mg/m³

4-Phenylcyclohexan 4994-16-5 max 0.03 mg/m³

Butadien 106-99-0 max 0.002 mg/m³

Vinylchloride75-01-4 max 0.002 mg/m³

Aromatic hydrocarbons max 0.3 mg/m³

organic volatiles max 0.5 mg/m³

Analytical testing of sample. Testing method not documented in the criteria.

27a

Wet treatment

Waste water from wet-processing sites (except greasy wool scouring sites and flax retting sites) shall, when discharged to surface waters after treatment (whether onsite or off-site), have a COD content of less than 25 g/kg, expressed as an annual average.

The applicant shall provide detailed documentation and test reports, using ISO 6060, showing compliance with this criterion, together with a declaration of compliance.

27b

Wastewater discharged from wet processing

If the effluent is treated on site and discharged directly to surface waters, it

shall also have a pH between 6 and 9 (unless the pH of the receiving water is outside

this range) and a temperature of less than 40°C (unless the temperature of the receiving water is above this value).

The applicant shall provide documentation and test reports showing compliance with this criterion, together with a declaration of compliance.

28

Flame retardants

No use is allowed of flame retardant substances or of flame retardant preparations containing more than 0.1% by weight of substances that are assigned or may be assigned at the time of application any of the following risk phrases (or combinations

thereof):

R40 (limited evidence of a carcinogenic effect),

R45 (may cause cancer),

R46 (may cause heritable genetic damage),

R49 (may cause cancer by inhalation),

R50 (very toxic to aquatic organisms),

R51 (toxic to aquatic organisms),

R52 (harmful to aquatic organisms),

R53 (may cause long-term adverse effects in the aquatic environment),

R60 (may impair fertility),

R61 (may cause harm to the unborn child),

R62 (possible risk of impaired fertility),

R63 (possible risk of harm to the unborn child),

R68 (possible risk of irreversible effects),

as laid down in Directive 67/548/EEC and its subsequent amendments.

This requirement does not apply to flame retardants that on application change their chemical nature to no longer warrant classification under any of the R-phrases listed above, and where less than 0.1% of the flame retardant on the treated yarn or fabric remains in the form as before application.

The applicant shall either provide a declaration that flame retardants have not been used, or indicate which flame retardants have been used and provide documentation (such as safety data sheets) and/or declarations indicating that those flame retardants comply with this criterion.

Flame retardant products substances are generally not allowed. In particular the following is forbidden:

Polybrominated biphenyles 59536-65-1 PBB

Tri-(2,3-dibromopropyl)-phosphate 126-72-7 TRIS

Tris-(aziridinyl)-phosphinoxide) 5455-55-1 TEPA

Analytical testing of sample. Testing method not documented in the criteria.

29

Shrink resistant finishes

Halogenated shrink-resist substances or preparations shall only be applied to wool slivers.

The applicant shall provide a declaration of non-use.

30

Finishes

No use is allowed of finishing substances or of finishing preparations containing more than 0.1% by weight of substances that are assigned or may be assigned at the time of application any of the following risk phrases (or combinations thereof):

R40 (limited evidence of a carcinogenic effect),

R45 (may cause cancer),

R46 (may cause heritable genetic damage),

R49 (may cause cancer by inhalation),

R50 (very toxic to aquatic organisms),

R51 (toxic to aquatic organisms),

R52 (harmful to aquatic organisms),

R53 (may cause long-term adverse effects in the aquatic environment),

R60 (may impair fertility),

R61 (may cause harm to the unborn child),

R62 (possible risk of impaired fertility),

R63 (possible risk of harm to the unborn child),

R68 (possible risk of irreversible effects), as laid down in Directive 67/548/EEC and its subsequent amendments.

The applicant shall either provide a declaration that finishes have not been used, or indicate which finishes have been used and provide documentation (such as safety data sheets) and/or declarations indicating that those finishes comply with this criterion.

34

Dimensional changes during washing and drying

Information on dimensional changes (%) shall be stated both on the care label and on the packaging and/or other product information if the dimensional changes exceed:

– 6% (warp and weft) for ‘other’ woven products

This criterion does not apply to:

– fibres or yarn

The applicant shall provide test reports using the following test method: ISO 5077 modified as follows: 3 washes at temperatures as indicated on the product, with tumble drying after each washing cycle unless other drying procedures are indicated on the product, at temperatures as marked on the product, wash load (2 or 4 kg) depending on the wash symbol. Should any of the above-mentioned limits be exceeded, a copy of the care-label and of the packaging and/or other product information shall be provided.

35

Colour fastness

The colour fastness to washing shall be at least level 3-4 for colour change and at least level 3-4 for staining.

The applicant shall provide test reports using the following test method: ISO 105 C06 (single wash, at temperature as marked on the product, with perborate powder).

The colour fastness to water shall be at least level 3

36

Colour fastness

The colour fastness to perspiration (acid and alkaline) shall be at least level 3-4

(Colour change and staining).

The applicant shall provide test reports using the following test method: ISO 105 E04 (acid and alkaline, comparison with multi-fibre fabric).

The colour fastness to alkaline perspiration shall be at least level 3-4

37

Colour fastness

The colourfastness to wet rubbing shall be at least level 2-3.

The applicant shall provide test reports using the following test method: ISO 105 X12.

38

Colour fastness

The colourfastness to dry rubbing shall be at least level 4.

The applicant shall provide test reports using the following test method: ISO 105 X12.

The colour fastness to dry rubbing shall be at least level 4

39

Colour fastness

The colourfastness to light shall be at least level 4.

The applicant shall provide test reports using the following test method: ISO 105 B02.